Your cart is empty
Already have an account? Log in to check out faster.
Tequila is one of the most regulated spirits in the world. The rules about what it can be made from, where it can be produced, and how it has to be labeled are more specific than almost any other category. But regulations only tell you what's required — not what's good.
Understanding how tequila is actually made helps you see why two bottles can share the same label and taste completely different. And it helps you understand what producers are choosing when they choose quality.
Tequila can only be made from one plant: Blue Weber agave (Agave tequilana Weber azul), grown in authorized regions of Mexico — primarily Jalisco, but also parts of Guanajuato, Michoacán, Nayarit, and Tamaulipas.
The agave is not a cactus. It's a succulent — related to lilies, not to desert shrubs — and it grows in a wide range of elevations and soils across Jalisco. Mature plants can span eight to twelve feet across.
Here's the catch: Blue Weber agave takes 7 to 12 years to reach full maturity. You can't rush it. Producers who harvest early get higher yields, but the plant's sugar concentration and flavor complexity are lower. Fully mature agave has had years to accumulate the sugars and aromatic compounds that make the difference in the glass.
When an agave reaches maturity, a worker called a jimador harvests it. Using a long-handled tool called a coa — a flat, round blade on a pole — the jimador strips away the outer leaves (pencas) to expose the core of the plant: the piña.
The name makes sense. A mature piña looks like a giant pineapple, dense and heavy. Depending on the agave and growing conditions, a piña can weigh anywhere from 50 to 300 pounds.
Jimadores work by hand. They read each plant — when to cut, where to trim — based on decades of experience. The timing matters: an agave harvested before its flowering spike (called the quiote) appears has retained its sugars in the piña. Once the quiote shoots up, the plant redirects those sugars into reproduction and the piña hollows out.
Raw agave is bitter and largely unfermentable. The cooking stage converts the plant's complex carbohydrates (fructans) into simple, fermentable sugars. It's where a significant amount of flavor is developed.
There are two main cooking methods:
Autoclaves (pressurized steam ovens) — Large stainless steel industrial ovens that cook the piñas in 8 to 24 hours under pressure. Fast, efficient, consistent. The dominant method at high-volume distilleries.
Brick hornos (traditional ovens) — Stone or brick ovens fired with natural wood or steam. Cooking takes 24 to 72 hours. Slower, more labor-intensive, less predictable — and according to many producers, better for developing complexity and depth in the final spirit.
A third method — diffuser — skips cooking altogether by chemically extracting sugars from raw agave with high-pressure water. This is the fastest and cheapest approach, but it produces a significantly thinner spirit and is controversial among traditionalists.
After cooking, the softened piñas need to be crushed to extract their juice — called aguamiel (honey water) — for fermentation.
Roller mills are the most common method: the cooked piñas pass through industrial rollers that squeeze out the juice. Fast and efficient.
Tahonas — large circular stone wheels traditionally pulled by horse or mule, now often motorized — grind the agave more slowly and gently. The process is dramatically slower and more labor-intensive, but some argue it adds flavor.
This is where alcohol is made. Yeast consumes the sugars in the agave juice and converts them into ethanol and carbon dioxide. The liquid at this stage is called tepache.
Commercial yeast is predictable, fast (24-72 hours), and produces a consistent result. Most industrial-scale tequila uses it.
Wild or house yeast — naturally occurring yeasts from the air, the agave, or the distillery environment — is slower (5-7 days or more), less consistent, and often produces more complex flavor compounds. Producers who use natural fermentation often point to this stage as where their tequila develops character that commercial methods can't replicate.
The fermented liquid goes through two rounds of distillation (NOM regulations require a minimum of two).
First distillation produces ordinario, typically around 20-30% ABV. This initial run separates alcohol from water and removes heavier compounds.
Second distillation produces tequila, typically around 55% ABV before water is added to bring it to bottling strength.
Most quality-focused distilleries use copper pot stills, which interact with the spirit during distillation and help strip sulfur compounds while preserving aromatic complexity. The cuts the distiller makes during each run — head, heart, tails — determine which compounds stay and which get discarded.
After distillation, the spirit is essentially blanco tequila. What happens next determines its classification:
After aging, tequila is filtered and diluted to bottling strength with purified water. For many producers, that's the end of it.
For others, something else happens here. Mexican tequila regulations (NOM-006-SCFI) permit producers to add certain substances before bottling, totaling up to 1% of the final product by weight:
None of these need to appear on the label. Producers who use none of these are informally called "additive-free." Finding them takes some research: look for producers verified by Tequila Matchmaker's Additive-Free Certification or the 1137 Project's independently tested list.
Tequila production involves dozens of decisions — agave maturity, cooking method, fermentation approach, still type, aging duration, barrel choice — before you factor in whether additives are used at the end.
Two tequilas on the same shelf can have the same classification, the same price, and taste completely different. That's not inconsistency in the category. It's the result of each of those decisions compounding.
The best way to understand what you're drinking is to know who made it and how. The NOM number on every bottle tells you which distillery produced it. The methods behind that number are worth knowing.
Copal 22 is made in Amatitán, Jalisco, from 100% fully mature Blue Weber agave, slow fermentation, and no additives — the way the process is supposed to go from field to bottle. See what that looks like.
Related reading: Why Amatitán Tequila Tastes Different · Mezcal vs. Tequila